Garden Thoughts

The glorious Flowering Cherries have been a staple of the British landscape in April for hundreds of years.  Most of these however originated in China and Japan where they are a central motif to the worship of nature and the Spring.  They are now bred around the world for their elegant shape and exquisite flowers which range from brilliant white to the deepest pink.  Cherries belong to the large genus known as Prunus which also includes Plums, Almonds, Apricots, Peaches and evergreen plants such as the Common Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and the Portugal Laurel (Prunus Lusitanica) both of which make superb hedges.

Although synonymous with April flowering Cherries can start to bloom as early as November with the species P. Subhirtella Autumnalis.  This has either white or pink flowers, makes a medium sized tree and will continue flowering on bare stems during mild winters until March.

  

The April flowering cultivars start with the smaller varieties like Prunus Incisa 'Ko No Mai' which can be grown as a 1.5 metre bush or grafted onto a stem to make a very nice half standard lollypop tree with pale pink flowers.

More upright forms include the Flagpole Cherry or Prunus 'Amanagawa'.  It has light pink, fragrant flowers and is a very useful tree for a small garden.  'Royal Burgundy' is a fairly new variety with a goblet-shaped canopy. It reaches 4m tall by 3m in width and has rose-pink double blooms followed by contrasting burgundy leaves that turn a spectacular scarlet in the autumn.  Also look out for 'Snow Goose' which has pure white flowers and unusually long tassel-like stamens.

There are also weeping cherries such as the old favourite Cheals Weeping Cherry, Prunus Kiku-Shidare-Sakura (please don't ask me for a translation) with its double candy pink flowers and an eventual height and width of 4m.  It looks great underplanted with Bulbs, Tulips, Violas, Hellebores and Snowdrops.  Smaller cultivars like P. Subhirtella 'Pendula Rubra" has attractive arching branches and single pink flowers with a rosy flush to the base of the petals.  One of the most graceful weeping varieties is P. 'Snow Showers' which is covered in many white flowers in April and is about 3m in height.  There are really too many of these beautiful Cherries to mention but just a few are Prunus Serula (the Tibetan Cherry) with its extraordinary polished mahogany bark and dainty pinky white flowers and P. 'Amber Beauty' which has elegantly peeling amber bark.

When planting Cherries in a border or grass area, remove the turf, dig a hole about 45cm square to a depth of 45cm and add garden compost at the bottom.  Then remove the pot from your tree and place the root ball with the roots gently teased out in the hole so that it's top sits at the same level of ground surrounding the hole. Do not bury the stem as this can cause stem rot which destroys the bark and results in the death of the tree.  Back fill into the hole around the root ball with the excavated soil adding more compost and firm in well with the soles of your shoes.  Water using about 6 litres of water and check if more water is needed every 5 days.  Mulch around the tree with rotted farmyard manure, bark or soil improver compost.  This will help prevent the soil drying at the roots as the weather warms as well as preventing the growth of competitive weeds.  Finally, stake the tree for its first few years to prevent wind rock which can damage the roots.  A wooden tree stake 5cm in diameter and 180cm tall accompanied with a strong rubber tree tie is perfect. If rabbits are a problem in your area also put a guard around the stem.

So which one is my favourite?  Definitely Prunus 'Chocolate Ice'.  It has chocolate coloured leaves and single white flowers which glisten against the dark foliage.  Absolutely stunning! Whichever is your own favourite this spectacular period of spring colour can be enjoyed year after year and if you're lucky enough to actually visit Japan be sure that you see these wondrous trees in their natural environment.

It's always a pleasure to welcome the month of March to the garden.  In March spring is evident everywhere from carpets of golden Daffodils, to Primroses, Crocus, Forsythia and Magnolias in full bloom to name but a few.  The temperature is rising, the birds are building nests and the 'hum' of neighbouring lawnmowers can be heard. It’s our alarm call to get back outside and tend our patches once more.

The Wild Primrose (Primula vulgaris) is such a great sight in spring and looks even better planted with Spring Bulbs, Euphorbias, Pulmonarias and Ferns.  Everyone has, I am sure, a cool, shaded area under a tree or walled corner where the primula species will grow well.  Whether it is Cowslips, Oxlips or other perennial Primulas they really do tell us its Spring.  Hundreds of primula varieties are now bred for colour and some of the polyanthus have great scent too.  Primula 'Everlast' is perennial and will flower year after year from September to May.  They're great plants for bees too and especially bumblebees in my garden.

Helping bees and other insect pollinators is vital for mankind.  If we lose the insects, we lose many of the birds, mammals, the food we grow and much more.  So, lets help them and sow annual and perennial flowers and also wildflowers.  These days there are many different pre-made mixes available to buy so you're sure to find one suitable for anywhere from containers to borders and sun to shade.  For wildflowers the soil doesn't have to be good either.  Just free of weeds and with an open structure.  Sow them in rows 30 cm (12 inches) apart so that any weeds that come up can be identified and pulled out.  Broadcasting them is more suitable in lawns and larger areas.  Wildflowers can also be sown in cell trays.  Just place a pinch of seed into good quality potting compost, leave in a cool area and they should germinate within one to two weeks.  When they get to 4 to 5 cm in height plant these clumps of seedlings 25 cm apart in well prepared soil and you won't need to worry about the competition from weeds.  They should require little care except watering in dry spells. You can then expect a carpet of flowers from mid-June to October. 

If you prefer a neat and manicured lawn March is a great time to give it a spring makeover.  Wet, cold and shady conditions encourage moss and if left it can soon overrun normal grass.  A weed, feed and moss kill granular fertiliser applied to your lawn now will, as suggested, stop the moss, encourage new growth and kill the weeds. Another option is iron sulphate which can be diluted in a watering can 3 ounces to every 9 litres.  It will kill the moss but not the grass.  Also, raking out old thatch from between the new grass shoots improves growth and spiking the ground with a garden fork or similar will help drainage in waterlogged areas.  The full preparation of a new grass area is best done over 3 to 4 weeks by first digging over the soil and then allowing it to break down.  Pull out any weeds that emerge before finally compacting the area by treading with your boots and raking level to a crumbly 'tilth'.  Towards the end of March depending on the air temperature the ground should be warm enough to germinate grass seed. Laying turf is more immediately but a lot more expensive.

On the veg patch prepare the soil to a fine tilth before sowing seeds of hardier veg like Beetroot, Broad Beans, Peas, Parsnips and Carrots.  Garlic, Onion sets and Broad Beans started earlier in peat modules will need to be planted now and spaced depending on the types and varieties used.  More space generally yields bigger crops and this is especially true for Broad Beans.  They like a good 25 cm (9 inches) between plants and 30 cm (12 inches) between rows which will allow enough room for the flowers to set well.  Indoors it's a good time to sow all Brassica, Cauliflower, Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts.  Sprinkle them thinly into a 10 cm pot covered with a thin layer of vermiculite and keep them at a temperature of 8 to 10 °C until they've germinated; usually around 5 to 10 days.  Then when they're just large enough to handle transfer the seedlings individually to 9 cm pots seed trays with 15 cells to grow on.  You can plant them on the patch when the roots show all around the sides of the pot which is usually early April.  Also try sowing new batches successionally every few weeks. This will help lengthen the harvesting period.

... and for a final bit of spring promise don’t forget that it's St David’s Day on March the 1st, Mothering Sunday on the 19th and the Spring Equinox on the 20th.

February is often the coldest month of the year and it may seem that winter is not over yet but look closely as you walk around your garden or local park and you will find a plethora of early flowers buds and new shoots beginning to burst into life.

In shaded areas Cyclamen Coum, Narcissus February Gold and the classic Wild Primroses are providing their pretty flowers for all to spot beside hellebores still in full flower.  Move onto the shrub border and Daphne Sarcococca and Hamamelis are all in bloom.  These flowers may be delicate but their scents are rich and strong.  Look up and you might just spot the earliest of the flowering trees the delicate pink flowering cherry Prunus subhirtella Autumnalis Rosea.

As far as gardening jobs go it may still be too muddy to mow the lawn and too cold to sow seeds on the veg patch but it's a perfect time for pruning ground covering herbaceous perennials and to shape fruit trees for bumper crops next summer.

Cornus or Dogwood has strikingly coloured bare stems in winter like the rich red of C. Sibirica. If left to grow will be too tall with less intense colour next year so cut it back to 20 cm from the ground every year and the new growths will be fresh and bright again.  The Butterfly Bush Buddleija also thrives by being cut hard back now to 2 pairs of buds higher than last year’s regrowth.  By doing this your bush will be more compact and will produce larger flowers.

Hydrangea Paniculata is best pruned before the new season’s growth starts, so prune last year’s branches back to two buds.  H. Annabelle should be pruned harder to 25 cm from the ground as it produces its strongest growth from low down you will achieve a more pleasing shape by hard pruning and larger flowers up to 30cm wide.  Leave the old flowers of mophead or lacecap hydrangeas for now as they protect the new flowering buds below until the risk of frost has gone in late March. Evergreen shrubs that have finished flowering or flower late in the year can also be pruned to shape in late February.  This includes Euonymus, Photinia, Eleagnus and some Viburnums.

Roses are best pruned in March after the cold weather has gone but make sure you tie any untrained branches of climbing roses to the trellis or wire supports now to stop them being blown around and causing wind rock to their roots.

Wisteria requires pruning in February to encourage it to flower well in the Spring.  The new side-shoots should have been shortened to 30cm last summer and cut back to two pairs of buds now.  These buds will often look much fatter than other buds on the plant a sign that they have flowers growing within them.

The late Summer and Autumn flowering clematis Viticella Orientalis and Texensis should be cutback to 30cm from the ground in their first year and 100cm in subsequent seasons because they flower on this seasons growth.

Leave the old stems of Herbaceous Perennials Ferns and Grasses intact overwinter as many insects will overwinter in the old foliage and stems.  This old growth can be removed at the end of February back to 10 cm above ground level to tidy up before the new growth starts.

In the fruit garden shorten the side-shoots of Red and White currents and Gooseberries to 5cms and the leading shoots by a third to encourage compact growth and more rapid ripening of the fruits.  Autumn fruiting Raspberries should be cut back to 5cms as this year’s growth will produce the fruit from August onwards. Apples and Pears can be pruned this month to regulate growth. Remove larger branches and thin out overcrowded buds.  Leave Plums and Cherries until later in the summer as pruning too early can allow disease to start on cut surfaces in cold damp conditions. Peaches Nectarines and Apricots flower in February so protect them with fleece on cold nights while also pruning out any dead, diseased or crossing stems.

2022 was a difficult year for us gardeners.  We saw extreme temperatures that inhibited the growth of plants while the increased cost of living made us all the more conscious about being able to afford all the replacements we wanted.  Now that its 2023 let's put behind us all the weather woes and, if we expect the growing conditions to be closer to normal, we can save a lot of money by growing our own plants from seeds and bulbs and tubers in the new year.

Let's start with veg that can be sown or planted in January.  Growing this early, if carefully planned, will produce earlier crops and, with continual sowing, an extended harvest time.

Potato sets (or tubers) should be bought from garden centres in early January before the varieties run out.  They come in three main growing groups from First Earlies that crop in June to Second Earlies that crop in mid to late July and Maincrop, September to October respectively.  Once you get them home, they need to be "chitted" which helps them grow as quickly as possible and thus lengthen the growing season for possible larger crops.  Each potato will have eyes which look like tiny nobly buds and they should be placed in empty seed trays or egg boxes so the eyes are uppermost on the tuber.  Keep them in a cool but light place indoors so that the eyes produce strong and compact 1cm shoots; too warm and they will be long and weak.

Great First Early potatoes to choose include:
• Cassablanca - long oval tubers
• Rocket - earliest of them all
• Swift - waxy flesh - delicate flavour

Second earlies:
• Kestrel - some blight resistance - good slug resistance
• Vivaldi - low calorie potato
• Jazzy - heavy cropper - waxy - good all-rounder
• Red Duke Of York - tasty - Red skin and yellow flesh - good all-rounder

Main Crop:
• Cara - good all-rounder - blight resistant
• Desiree - Good in hot summers - slug resistant - good all-rounder
• Carolus - the one I grow which produced a good crop of large, blight resistant tubers (albeit I did have to water weekly last year to keep them happy).  They have a high-quality taste great for roasts, mashing, chips and even crisps.  I would recommend this one to anyone for easy growing.  I put in 90 potatoes and cropped 350lb.  That's enough till spring, I think.

If you have a propagator or heated propagator indoors January is also a good time to sow seeds of Onions and Leeks.  Sprinkle thinly in trays of compost on a windowsill at 15°c (room temperature) and put silver foil along the near side to stop the seedlings drawing towards the light.

Cold crops are ones that can be sown or planted in a cold frame (mini greenhouse) outside or a conservatory/ greenhouse and include Garlic.  Garlic is planted by splitting a bulb into individual coves and then planting each into 9 -11cm pots of seed compost or a low nutrient/ garden compost mix so that their pointy tips just show above the surface.  Water them well, leave them to grow in the cold and then plant them out when the soil conditions allow (around the end of Feb for me).

Onion sets can be planted in the same way or into 8cm cell type trays and these will get a head start compared to a March planting.  Great varieties include Setton, Sturon and Karmer which is an exceptionally sweet and colourful Red Onion.

Shallots are expensive in the shops but are very cheap and easy to grow.  One set (bulb) will produce around 9 to 10 Shallots by the end of July and are perfect in a stir fry, Mediterranean dish or stew.

Broad Beans are one of my favourite early veg and can be frozen when they are still young.  I grow Masterpiece Long Pod and put 2 seeds 1 inch apart in John Innes No.1 or Seed Compost in a single cell of a 5cm x 5cm seed tray.  Water them and leave in a cold frame until the plants grow 10 - 12cm tall.  Plant out in March 23cm apart in double rows that are 30cm apart and with 80cm between each double row.  Choosing a sunny spot will produce more flowers that will then each produce pods of around 6 to 8 white seeded, freezable beans.

Veg seeds that require more heat include Sweet Peppers, Chillies, Aubergines and early Tomatoes. Early sowing is great for early crops and particularly of greenhouse grown varieties.  As these plants are tropical in origin, they require a high germinating heat of around 65 to 75°F above a radiator or with use of a heated propagator.  Transfer them to small pots when the first leaves are big enough to handle and then continue to grow in the warm and with as much light as you can.

Sprouted seeds like Mustard and Cress are fun to grow and good to eat and they're great for the kids too.  Microgreens of Rocket, Dark Opal Basil and Coriander all have the flavours of the larger plants but are produced in weeks rather than months.  Grow them on tissue paper in margarine tubs in a warm kitchen.

And finally, don't forget to grow a few flowers.  Begonia Semperflorens, hanging basket types including and non-Stops should be sown so that their tiny seed remain on the surface of moist compost in a heated propagator or a warmish room.  Later transfer the seedlings to seed trays 40 seedlings per tray or individually into 2-inch pots.  Geraniums (Zonal types) and Impatiens (Bizzy Lizzies) can be sown in the same way and all will appreciate a warm environment and plenty of natural light.

Other seeds to sow now are Snapdragons, Sweet Peas (cold sow), Delphiniums, Dahlias (warm), Coleus (warm), Lavender Hidcote or Munstead (will flower in their first summer from an early sowing), Gazanias and Cacti and Succulents.

So, remember, sow now and save on your harvests later!

Many plants are bought for the home or given as gifts for Christmas from the popular Poinsettias and Cyclamen to the more unusual Anthuriums.  Here’s how to look after some during the festivities and afterwards.

Poinsettias are a Christmas favourite which produce modified coloured leaves (bracts) from classic red to shades of pink, cream, variegated and spotted ones too.  To keep them looking perfect put them in a light position out of direct sunlight at a temperature between 15 - 20°c.  There is no need to feed these plants but avoid overwatering them by allowing the compost to dry before plunging in a bowl of water. The coloured bracts should last for about three to four months. 

Christmas Prepared Hyacinths will flower early for Christmas so by December there should be a 2.5cm flower bud protruding from the bulb. Grow on indoors in a coolish spot at around 15°c. By the middle of the month the flower bud will be showing colour. Move to a cooler room where growth will slow and the flower emerges and will last longer.  Keep the compost just moist and increase watering once the flower opens.

Amaryllis is usually sold in garden centres as dry bulbs or as a part of gift kits with the pot and soil also included.  They produce long stems with a large trumpet single or double flower in a range of colour from white, pink, orange, red, bicolour to striped.  Some reach 80cm tall.  It is easy to grow if placed in a pot a little wider than the bulb making sure the top half sits uncovered above the top of the compost.  Water and place in a warm environment to bring into growth where the flower will come first followed later by the leaves.  They grow best when put in a light place while keeping them just moist but not too wet.  After flowering keep Amaryllis indoors during the cold months then put outside in the summer where they can be left to dry out and bake in the sun.

The Paperwhite Narcissus is a tender Daffodil that produces delicate white flowers with a delightful sweet scent just 7 weeks after planting.  Plant as many of them as you can fit in a pot filled with bulb compost and keep the top half of the bulbs exposed.  Unlike some Christmas flowering bulbs there is no need to 'prepare them' with a period of darkness and cold.  Instead put them straight into a warm and light room.

The beautiful Rhododendron like flowers of Indoor Azaleas come in many colours and a few are also scented.  They are very easy to keep as long as they remain moist during their flowering period.  Keep a good eye on them though as they can dry out very quickly causing the petals to drop early.  Their ideal growing temperature is 10 - 15°c so avoid warmer places which will cause the flowers to finish sooner.  Aftercare involves replanting in to a bigger pot of ericaceous compost before putting them outside from the middle of June.  A shady position is best before eventually bringing them back indoors at the end of October. Always keep the compost moist.

Cyclamen is one of the most popular houseplants. They are perfect for the cooler parts of your house and have compact stems of white, pink, red or bicoloured nodding flowers over intricately patterned leaves.  The perfect temperature for them is 10 - 15°c in a light position away from radiators.  Kitchens, bathrooms, studies and by the front door are all great places for them.  Pull or twist off the flowers once they have finished and more will follow for many months to come.  Grow them inside until the leaves start to go yellow and then you can either rest the corms for a while or repot them and grow into a bigger plant to flower again next winter.

Christmas Cacti are one of my favourite houseplants.  They are slow growing succulents with flat and fleshy leaves that by the end of the summer produce exotic looking flowers of cerise pink, white, orange or apricot. Flowering can start as early as the middle of November and continue to late January.  Give them a period of time outside in the summer before moving them back indoors in October. They are good in light or shady places and allow the compost to dry before re watering. Checking the soil regularly is the best policy.  Remove the old flowers to keep the plant looking tidy.

In mixed containers the plants that need the same conditions are selected. As the plants begin to outgrow the container after Christmas replant each separate into pots of either John Innes No.2 or a good Multipurpose Compost.  Common arrangements include Ferns, Poinsettia, Azalea, Peace Lilly, Coral Bead Plant, Polka Dot Plants and more.

                                      Have a Happy Houseplant filled Christmas Everyone.

Although the temperature is cooling and the nights are much longer and many of your plants are going dormant there is still a lot to do in the garden during November.  Autumn planting of everything from Tulip bulbs to Pansies and Wallflowers is well under way and the moisture in the soil makes it a great time to plant trees, shrubs and conifers.  In my garden I have colourful fruiting crab apples and winter flowering shrubs such as sweetly scented Mahonias and the variegated evergreen leaves of Spotted Laurels and Hollys.

 

November is also a great time for pruning many plants before winter arrives including Apple and Pear trees while many herbaceous perennials benefit from being lifted, divided and replanted.  Also, there's still time to treat your lawn for moss as long as the temperature is not too low and there's adequate moisture in the ground.

 

Plants requiring winter protection should have been taken to a cold greenhouse, cold frame or covered in horticultural fleece by now dependent on their requirements.  These include Agapanthus, Fuchsias, Cannas, Bananas, Tree Ferns and Citrus.  If brought indoors most will prefer a light position with just enough moisture to keep them dormant.  Too high a temperature will start them back into growth.

 

But it is not just the plants that require our care during the winter.  Spare a thought for the wildlife in our gardens too.  Habitats for birds can be improved with all those aforementioned trees and shrubs you could be planting, not just for somewhere to roost, but also for protection from predators.  Small garden trees such as Sorbus and Malus Fruitilciuos and Red Sentinal with a mass of little branches are favoured by small birds such as Blue Tits, Wrens and Robins where they can keep out of reach from bigger birds of prey especially. The fruits and berries of these as well as shrubs such as Pyracantha, Cotoneaster and Holly will provide them with a hearty winter treat while Ligustrum and evergreen Viburnum Tinus are also good for roosting.

 

Birds like to be fed all year round but a few bird feeders or a bird table filled up daily with fresh food is particularly beneficial to them from now and through the next 6 months up until after baby birds have fledged from their nests.  I have been feeding all year long with premium fat balls in a no mess feeder which attracts a family of Blue Tits from my nearby woodland and the impressive Long Tailed Tit.  Birds prefer various feed blends including peanuts, sunflower seeds, hemp, pulses and more.  This will greatly increase the diversity of feathered friends that you will see.

 

And it's not just birds.  Frogs and Toads love not only a pond but pots laid sideways and log piles from your pruned trees which are perfect places to hide or hibernate.  Hedgehogs are on the decline nationally so why not install a Hedgehog house and leave parts of your lawn and borders overgrown for them.  Also ask your adjoining neighbours to make a Hedgehog highway between your gardens so that these friendly creatures can move around freely.

 

Finally, don't leave out the insects.  For every one that damages our plants there are many more that help and protect.  Ladybirds are classic garden pest predators and without Bees and Hoverflies none of your flowers will be pollinated.  Old plant stalks and wooden window sills are common sleeping places for them and if you leave your shed window slightly open Moths, Tortoiseshell Butterflies and Lacewings may overwinter there too.  Bug hotels are all the rage and can be bought or simply made by tying together a bunch of bamboo canes and twigs with string.

 

Let's get gardening for the wildlife and ourselves in November.

When the daylight hours have really shortened and there is that special light we are in Autumn. The leaves are starting to change to more muted tones before they fall and there is a sense that everything in the garden is winding down for a good sleep. For gardeners it’s a special time as we prepare for another year of plant delights.

Planting in autumn allows more time for new roots to grow in warm soil so plants are less vulnerable to dry periods the following summer. The colder soil during the winter encourages flowering as soon as the weather warms up. Evergreens become particularly well established in autumn without the difficult fluctuations of spring weather and need less water to establish.

Autumn is also the time to plant all spring flowering bulbs like daffodils crocus and tulips and change the summer flowering bedding plants in our patio tubs to primroses winter pansies and violas. 

Towards the end of October is the best time to plant hedges and soft fruit which are usually available as bareroot plants, an economic way to buy them, when you are planting larger quantities.

It is a good time to take stock of what is actually providing that last burst of colour and interest to our gardens before winter sets in. Here are some additions you might like to include to increase the spectacle.

Two new varieties of the Smoke Bush Cotinus are a must. The pale orange new leaves of Cotinus Golden Lady in spring turn a gorgeous pure yellow in summer and then brilliant orange in autumn before leaf fall. It is a large shrub for the back of a border which is easy to grow bushy and drought tolerant. It is a good foil for Cotinus Lilla which is a compact form growing to 1m with rich purple leaves from spring to autumn when the foliage turns pink orange scarlet and red.

Another new variety is Weigela florida Sunn Fantasy. It has a very long flowering period from May to October with interesting colourful leaves variegated green cream and red that show good autumn colour before leaf fall. It is very easy to grow, compact and performs well in patio tubs if garden space is limited. It is drought resistant like many weigelas and loves sunny places.

Physocarpus All Black is another dramatic deciduous shrub with very dark purple black foliage and stems in summer. The leaves in autumn turn red orange and yellow giving an entirely different contrast to any surrounding plants in the border. It has pink flowers in May and June and will thrive in sun or part shade.

New introductions for Buddleias are the Humdinger series. They are compact semi evergreen shrubs more suitable for smaller gardens and patio tubs. The flowers appear in early summer as 20 to 30 cm long panicles and last well into autumn. All varieties are very easy to grow in a sunny place and are loved by Butterflies Moths and Bees. Buddleia Little Angel has long white flowers and silvery foliage while B. Candy Little Lila has beautiful pale lilac flowers.

Another exciting semi evergreen shrub with especial autumn interest is Abelia Kaleidoscope. In spring the leaves are yellow and green intensifying in colour throughout summer and turning bright orange red and purple in autumn. The flowers are pale pink and appear in summer lasting well into autumn. It grows to about 1m and likes a sheltered sunny place and compost rich soil.

All borders in the garden benefit from some evergreens which keep the colour going when other plants have lost their leaves. Choisya Sundance is an absolute favourite with bright golden waxy leaves that when crushed have a herby scent. It also has white flowers during summer which smell of orange blossom. Another variety Choisya Goldfinger has the same golden foliage which is finely cut with white flowers in late spring a beautiful contrast when planted near Berberis Darts Red Lady.

Two Pittosporums are worth a mention for prolonging the evergreen theme. Pittosporum Tom Thumb has purple leaves which darken as the weather gets colder. In spring the new leaf growth is bright apple green with small dark honey scented flowers. It is small compact easy to grow and very drought tolerant a good contrast to Lavender and other silver foliage evergreens. Pittosporum Silver Queen is a larger variety with silver variegated decorative foliage much sort by flower arrangers.

It is worth a visit to browse the plant collections at the Garden Centre at this time of year there are so many other possibilities I haven’t space to introduce them all.

As our summers extend the colour in our gardens needs to as well. Plants for the Indian summer reflect the alteration in the length of daylight hours but can retain the brilliant hues we expect from hotter climes. Some even bear the name.

Alstromeria Indian Summer reflects just that. It is an exotic looking strong growing perennial with coppery orange flowers that are ideal to brighten the garden in late summer. It flowers continuously from late July with new buds emerging all the time well into the autumn. A perfect choice for long lasting displays in pots or mixed borders. Protect the new growth in spring from slug damage like you would for Hostas but otherwise it is trouble free. They look lovely planted with Kniphofia, Echinacaea, Rudbeckia, Heleniums and Ornamental Grasses.

Tropical cannas have lush green or bronze foliage and brightly coloured flowers from cream yellow and orange to deepest red. They appear from midsummer until autumn. They thrive in moist soils in full sun, and look fantastic when grown in exotic ornamental displays in mixed borders or large containers, especially when planted with other exotic-looking plants, such as Alstromeria and Crocosmia. The huge purple veined leaves of Canna ‘Wyoming’ make a bold statement in any garden. In late summer warm apricot orange flowers with slightly frilled petals appear on long stalks above the foliage. Protect the rhizomes from frost in autumn with a thick layer of mulch or move the pots to a very sheltered place for winter.

Anemone Japonica is a charming hardy perennial for sun or shade flowering from August until late October. The pretty star shaped single or double flowers with yellow centres are produced in abundance in amazing shades of pink and white that open above attractive foliage. The “Fantasy” varieties are only 30cms tall and give a stunning display in patio pots or taller varieties like Anemone Queen Charlotte double pink or Honorable Jobert pure single white which are 1m are excellent for the mixed herbaceous border. Anemones are a great source of late nectar for pollinating insects.

Rudbeckia Sunbeckia Victoria, The Black Eyed Susan, is a short variety growing to about 50cms. It is upright with huge bright orange yellow daisy flowers with dark brown centres on strong sturdy stems. It will flower from the middle of august into autumn when grown in a sunny place in soil that drains well or in pots. It makes an excellent cut flower for the house. Other good large flowering varieties are Rudbeckia Butterscotch, Peacan Pie and Electric Shock.

Helenium Short and Snazzy another strong growing late flowering hardy herbaceous perennial has daisy like flowers with cone shaped centres which Bees, Butterflies and other pollinating insects adore. Plant it in full sun in soil that drains well. Another name for Helenium is “Sneeze Weed” In times gone by it was very popular when the leaves were dried and used as Snuff. It was believed it would rid the person using it of evil spirits.

 “Autumn would not be without the colour of Sedum Spectabilis “The Ice Plant” flowers. This traditional cottage garden perennial has graced our garden for centuries. It is an essential late summer source of nectar for bees and butterflies. Sedum flowers are held on big flat easily accessible flowers on which butterflies rest and bask in latsummer sunshine.  The Green buds appear from midsummer colouring to pink into autumn. The stems are thick and succulent with blue green fleshy leaves. It is essential to support this plant with a wire herbaceous frame to enjoy this long lasting feature of the mixed border as the flowers become heavy as they mature. Grow in a sunny position in soil that is not too rich, even verging on the malnourished. The succulent stems cope well with dry positions.

Leave the flowers on the plant after they fade and they will dry and catch those glistening, ephemeral hoar frosts.

August should be the hottest month in the year. The Garden is looking at its best and many fruits and vegetables are ready to harvest from The Patch.

Second Early Potatoes are ready to dig. They are good ‘salad potatoes’ which don’t disintegrate on cooking and work well in hot or cold salads. Charlotte and Maris Peer are also suitable for baking, mashing, frying and roasting. 

French and Runner Beans are cropping well this month so pick every couple of days to keep the plants producing flowers and more beans. Water plants at least 3 times per week and spray the flowers in the evening with water to ensure the beans set. Pick French Beans when thin and tender. You will only need to cook them for 4 minutes.

It is the main harvesting time for Courgettes. Keep cutting them with a sharp knife when they are the size of a banana and they will keep flowering and producing more fruit. If the leaves show powdery mildew the plant is stressed so remove the affected foliage immediately and water copiously. Feed with a high nitrogen liquid feed. Cougettes are such versatile vegetables. They are fantastic in Soufflees, with pasta in Courgette and Bacon Carbonnara, or rice in Tomato and Courgette Rissoto, ribboned in a Minted Salad, in Homemade Soup, fried as Fritters, spiralised and cooked as Noodles, stuffed with sausage and herbs or sliced long ways and barbecued.

A very easy vegetable to grow is Sweet Corn. Plant the young plants in blocks approximately 60cms apart at the beginning of June. The male flowers are at the top of the plant and pollinate the female flowers below to produce the cobs. Apply plenty of water to each plant to swell the cobs which are ready to harvest when the male flowers at the top go brown and the corn exudes a milky sap. Check often towards the end of the month to ensure the freshest sweetest cobs.

The early Onion varieties can be harvested when the “necks” naturally bend over. Lift and allow to completely dry before weaving them into plaits to store for winter. Seeds of Japanese Onion varieties can be sown at the end of August for fresh onions early next summer.

The “Veg Patch” will start to clear when you have picked the Peas and Broad Beans and dug the Early Potatoes.  There is though still time to plant seeds of Rocket for late salads, Pak Choi for stir fries, Spinach for all those vitamins and Turnips a great autumn root vegetable for soups and stews as the weather gets colder.

August is the month to prune Plum and Cherry Trees. Pruning at this time of year prevents the spores of the fungus disease Silver Leaf, which appear in autumn and winter, from entering any freshly cut surfaces. Silver Leaf will weaken the tree and cause affected branches to die.

Summer fruiting Raspberries will have been harvested by now so the old canes should be removed at ground level and the strong new canes loosely tied to the support. Feed the plants with chicken manure or fish blood and bone and water regularly. Remove any thin or damaged canes to promote strong growth for next season. Autumn fruiting varieties like Joan J and Autumn Bliss will start to fruit towards the end of August and carry on well into September. Keep watering these regularly so the berries become plump and harvest them when they are dark red.

Blackberries and Loganberries are ready to harvest in August. The new canes are also growing vigorously so select the strongest and tie onto the support for fruiting next year. These plants produce a lot of canes so it is important to only retain what you need to avoid overcrowding. Remove the old canes when the harvest is finished.

Blackcurrants will have finished fruiting so remove the fruiting stems and give the plants a good layer of rotted compost or manure to encourage new fruiting growth. Red currants should have the side stems cut back to 10cms from the main stem which encourages flower buds and therefore fruit next year.

The Roses and Clematis have finished their first flowering. The Lupins, Delphiniums and Geraniums have been cut back to produce a second colourful show and so we need plants to carry on the dazzling display.

Hydrangea Paniculata Strawberry Blossom is a deciduous shrub which grows to 1m and produces long ice cream cone like flowers from late June until October. These open creamy white and pale pink blooms then develop strawberry red edges to the petals. A delightful addition to any mixed border preferably in dappled shade.

Rudbeckia Butterscotch Biscuit, Electric Shock, Orange and Pecan Pie are all new varieties of this brightly coloured daisy. They are very hardy, compact, love to be planted in full sun and flower continuously until late autumn. The flowers are yellow orange and red with chocolate brown centres. They are a magnet to bees and butterflies and give a good display if planted with Salvias, Penstemons and Ornamental Grasses.

Helenium Mariachi Siesta, Salsa and Fuego are compact plants with small daisy shaped flowers. They are hardy producing lots of claret red flowers with yellow markings rich in nectar well into autumn. The blooms make excellent cut flowers and attract many summer butterflies. They are ideal for smaller gardens, can be planted in patio tubs and are very disease resistant.

Salvia Hot Lips, Pink Lips and Amethyst Lips are charming neat growing perennials with unusual two tone half coloured flowers in red/white, pink/white and purple/white accordingly. The flowers give at least 5 months of summer colour attracting bees and butterflies with a bonus of blackcurrant scented leaves. These plants are very easy to grow.

Crocosmia or Monbretia are exotic plants that will thrive in even poor stony soils and tolerate drought. The broad sword-like leaves are architecturally attractive even before the arching flower stems emerge. The flowers appear in summer on wiry stems and last for many weeks. They also make good cut flowers. Noteworthy varieties are Walbertons Yellow, bright orange yellow, Walbertons Bright Eyes, very free flowering orange with a red centre and Miss Scarlet dazzling scarlet. Planted with Ornamental Grasses, Helleniums, and Rudbeckias Crocosmias give a stunning display.

Astrantia Roma is a great favourite and was first seen in paintings from 16^thcentuary so has certainly stood the test of time. It is a pretty cottage garden plant with papery soft pink flowers that looks delightful planted with Ferns or Ornamental Grasses. It is quick growing and flowers continuously from June to September.

Begonia Tropical Sunset is a stunning plant for tubs or hanging baskets producing copious amounts of fluorescent apricot peach coloured flowers throughout summer. Plant in a sunny place where the serrated green leaves form mounds which the flowers drape over. This plant is very easy to grow.

Agastache Beelicious Purple is a very insect friendly plant a rich source of pollen and nectar much loved by bees and butterflies. It is a hardy perennial which appears each year and has purple flowers from July to September. The compact blue green evergreen leaves have a minty scent so plant along a path way so when the foliage is brushed the perfume is released. This plant is really easy to grow and will not be eaten by slugs rabbits or deer.

Salvia Roman Red is a hardy perennial and a unique new variety with deep ruby red flowers on tall black elegant stems. The foliage is aniseed scented. Butterflies love fluttering around these flowers from July until autumn. This beautiful plant was awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

Finally and my favourite summer flowering perennial is Agapanthus Midnight Star. This beautiful African lily produces rich blue round heads of trumpet shaped flowers which erupt from deep blue buds. They appear on 70cm tall strong upright stems from a whorl of strap-shaped leaves. This star performer will also grow well in large tubs on the patio.

Our tubs and hanging baskets are planted and starting to look really established so time to take a look at a few special treats to add to the summer garden. Stewart has been busy checking for gems that will enhance any planting scheme so here’s a few. There are a lot more to follow through the summer months.

Hardy perennial Pinks are delightful little evergreens that require very little maintenance. They are very suitable for our local alkaline clay soil at the front of a sunny border where they will flower endlessly from spring until autumn. The single or double flowers are loved by the pollinating insects in an amazing array of colour combinations with a distinct sweet clove scent. A vase of these flowers will perfume the entire house. Remove the flowers as they fade to promote continual flowering and feed with tomato food.

Stewart’s Choice is Dianthus Tequila Sunrise a compact variety with fantastically perfumed single soft orange pink flowers with buff centres and deep pink markings. It is excellent to grow in pots or window boxes and Dianthus Coconut Sundae a smaller variety with silvery green leaves and short stems. The double very perfumed pure white flowers have claret red centres. Both varieties are excellent

Osteospermums or the Cape Daisies have long lasting colourful blooms through the summer and into autumn. Some varieties are hardy enough to survive a British winter but should generally be treated as tender perennials like Geraniums. They are great container plants for a sunny patio and should be planted in John Innes Compost Number 2 or 3 with some grit added for free drainage. There is a great choice of varieties and colours the hardiest being the white or pink flower varieties. Feed with tomato food weekly and remove fading flowers to promote fresh buds.

Stewart’s choices are Oesteospermum Stardust which is upright with purple pink single daisy flowers and yellow centres. The flowers last a long time attracting butterflies and bees. Oesteospermum Lady Leitrim is a large single daisy with pink mauve tones on white. It is easy to care for and will survive most winters. Cut them back a bit in late autumn and again in March before the new growth appears when flowering sometimes starts as early as April and does not stop until November.

Hardy Fuchsias are another very long flowering sub shrub in an amazing range of colours from white pink red blue mauve and purple. They vary in size from Fuchsia Tom Thumb and Lady Thumb at 30cms, to grow in tubs, to Fuchsia Riccotonii with small purple and deep pink flowers at 1.2m for a shrub border. Fuchsias are ideal plants for shady places with compost enriched soil.

Stewart’s Choice is Lady Thumb a little gem which forms a neat and bushy mound laden with pink and white flowers from June to October. Perfect to grow it in pots on a shady patio it is one of the hardier fuchsias. Protect the roots with a generous layer of mulch in autumn or move potted plants to a sheltered position in the garden during the worst of the winter weather. Fuchsia Dollar Princess is Stewart’s second choice, a bushy variety with lots of ruffled double purple flowers with contrasting cerise pink sepals from summer into autumn. It holds an RHS award for its excellent garden performance. A lovely compact specimen for a patio container or planted at the front of mixed borders.

Stewart’s final choices are within the Dahlias which are tender herbaceous perennials that range in height from 20cms to 1.8m tall. They are sun loving plants that need lots of water, rich soil and feed but reward us by flowering nonstop from June to the first frost often now in December. The larger varieties all need support. The flowers are an amazing array of colour and form from tight pom poms to dinner plate size blooms and some with coloured foliage. A must exhibit for the Horticultural Show.

Stewart’s choices are Dahlia Amazone a stunning plant only 60cms tall with masses of pink to red flowers held high above its compact foliage. Excellent for the front of a sunny border or in pots the flowers just keep on coming from summer right through to the autumn frosts. Dahlia Bishop of York is a rare hardy Dahlia with very dark foliage that is a perfect foil to the bright yellow flowers. A late source of pollen for the bees.

To celebrate the 70 years of Queen Elizabeth’s reign “The Queen’s Green Canopy Initiative” is a concept inviting people in the UK to plant trees as a lasting legacy to honour The Queen’s leadership and service to the nation for the last 70 years.

The aim is to help the environment by planting trees during her Platinum Jubilee Year. Planting more trees is our most powerful weapon in the fight against climate change. Trees are the ultimate carbon capture and storage machines. Like great carbon sinks, woods and forests absorb atmospheric carbon and lock it up for centuries through photosynthesis. The entire woodland ecosystem plays a huge role in locking up carbon, including the living wood, roots, leaves, deadwood, surrounding soils and its associated vegetation.

The initiative will create a green legacy of its own, with every tree planted bringing benefits for people, wildlife and climate, now and for the future. The Queen and The Prince of Wales planted the first Jubilee tree, a Verdun Oak, in the grounds of Windsor Castle earlier this year. Verdun Oaks were first planted in the UK as memorials following World War I. The acorns were collected at the battlefield of Verdun and grown into young trees. The Prince of Wales describes tree planting as a “statement of hope and faith in the future”. The Queen has been planting trees since she acceded to the throne in 1952. During her reign she has planted more than 1,500 trees worldwide. If you do not have space to plant your own tree contribute to a local “ The Queen's Green Canopy” project to create a network of individual trees, avenues, copses and whole woodlands in honour of Our Queen.

We can also celebrate by using the national colours of the Union Jack. Red, White and Blue for the summer flower schemes in our tubs hanging baskets and borders. Unless you have already grown your plants from seed these are now ready to buy from the Garden Centre. May is when most risk of damaging early morning frost is very low so you can confidently plant with just one eye on early morning temperatures. If cold is forecast just cover with fleece the night before.
If you are reusing tubs and baskets from last year first empty completely, remove the drainage crocks, and moss and liners from baskets. Soak in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 9 parts water for 10mins then thoroughly rinse in clean water and allow to dry otherwise things get very messy especially if you have a little helper.

If you are planting tubs whether plastic, stone, reconstituted materials or old galvanised baths make sure there are drainage holes in the base and a good layer of drainage crock, even broken up polystyrene packing, before adding any compost. This avoids the compost compacting. The composts we recommend contain little or no peat (the ultimate carbon store) which has been replaced by coir and wood fibre substitutes, which are both waste products. Westland New Horizon which is completely peat free claims to now produce better root growth than most other composts. Terry and I are trialling it this year so I will report our findings at a later date. Meanwhile you can always rely on Jacks Magic.

The same composts can be used for planting hanging baskets. These can be lined with moss and synthetic moss type products but these should be replaced every year to avoid any carry over of pests and disease from a previous season. It is a good idea to include water retaining crystals and slow release feed after a couple of handfuls of compost have been added.

So which plants shall we select? Here are just a few possible combinations.
If you have lots of tubs or hanging baskets its effective to choose a variety like Petunias which come in so many colours and plant a single colour per tub so one Red one White One Blue. Petunias are available as upright or trailing plants with single or double flowers which are often highly perfumed and like sunny patios. Verbena is more discreet and also available as upright and trailing varieties in red white and blue.

Other schemes for sunny aspects can include Red Geraniums, Senecio with silvery white foliage and White or Blue Lobelia all of which can be upright and trailing. If you are planting a shady place substitute Red Fuchsias for Geraniums and Impatien White Beacon for Senecio.

Sweet Pea Royal Mixed is a mix of Sweet Pea seeds in red white blue and royal purple. Plant directly into a large pot with an obelisk to support these highly perfumed much loved climbing cottage garden plants.

The Platinum Jubilee Rose has large double vibrant pink flowers with an incredibly strong sweet fragrance that will linger in the breeze. This compact shrub variety is ideal for beds and borders or even grown as low hedging. It is also good in large tubs especially on terraces and porches where the fabulous scent can be admired by everyone. We must find a place to plant this rose.